Wooden decking has become a ubiquitous garden feature and its popularity is understandable. Wood is easy to work with and has unique natural warmth, so a small deck can easily be built as a DIY project.

When creating your own deck, consider how you intend to use the space and therefore how this will affect your plans. For example, using your deck for sunbathing is good – in which case you may want greater privacy from a pergola. For a more entertaining aspect; including an outdoor lighting to extend use of your deck into the evening is a good idea to consider, the same approach can be used for a children’s play area, and thus you should make sure that safety features are included such as railings.

If you are thinking of adding a railing to the edge of your deck, then try sourcing plain wooden balustrades or sleek metal designs as a more subtle and contemporary alternative to some of the over-decorated and elaborate wooden styles that are more commonly available.

Ask yourself how the surrounding garden will work with decking, hard landscaping materials such as natural stone paving or decorative gravel can work exceptionally around decking, whilst situating a deck next to or over water can create a very special effect.

Traditionally, decking is a useful design feature for sloping sites where its flexibility comes into its own. The split-level look is also a design style you can recreate on a level site by dividing a deck into a series of sections at slightly different heights, with steps leading from one to another.

Another decking design is a sunken section. Most decks are raised off the ground, thus leaving space for a lower section to be recessed into the middle. You could then line the interior with wood and built-in benches to create an unusual sunken seating area. Or build a sand pit for the children with its own removable wooden cover.

Shape can also be used to create added interest. Curved decks can look really stunning, particularly where other design features in the garden such as borders and lawns also echo the shape of the deck.

The layout of decking boards can also be used creatively. In a narrow garden arranging the boards horizontally across the deck can create an impression of greater width, and shorter gardens can look longer if boards are aligned pointing down the plot.

The most versatile arrangement however is to set the boards on a 45 degree angle, which not only looks more interesting but can also help create a new line of sight in the garden.

In summary, decks are a flexible garden feature which can not only create practical living space but enhance the rest of the garden. If creating a deck, always ensure that you purchase your wood for a decking project from a reputable supplier who can guarantee that the materials come from a sustainable source and are FSC accredited, to help protect the environment.

Recommended websites for finding decking products and exceptional designs can be found around the web, places such as http://www.timberclick.com

• Seek specialist local advice on the suitability of plants for your area from a good quality garden centre or nursery, particularly members of the Horticultural Trades Association.

• Try and work with just two or three complementing or contrasting colours. Remember that you can introduce colour through foliage and leaves as well as flowers.

• Arrange larger shrubs, trees and climbers towards the rear of a border. Then come down in height towards the front, using smaller shrubs and perennials.

• For a natural effect arrange plants in drifts made up of odd numbers, such as three’s, five’s or seven’s. Then an occasional single specimen can add an interesting focal point.

• You can also contrast the plants in your border through their form and shape, for example by mixing ornamental grasses with round leaved shrubs.

• Container plants can be moved around the garden to maintain interest. Consider using more delicate varieties of perennials, shrubs and even trees, which can then be brought indoors over winter.

• If your garden is to be used by small children please take care to avoid using potentially harmful plants which may be poisonous, cause skin irritation, or have thorns.

Shrubs give borders structure, colour and personality and can be used creatively to set the mood of the garden. The sizes given in the following list are the likely ultimate heights of the plants. They will however, vary according to conditions. Sizes are indicated as a general guide: Small = up to 90cm. Medium = 90 – 180cm. Large = 180cm +.

The many varieties of dwarf conifers make lovely additions to perennial and
shrub planting and can be used to provide shape and structure to borders. The sizes for the following list are likely height after ten years under average conditions and maximum height (MH) for taller and faster growing specimens.

Good to grow as specimens in an open position, their classification tends to be blurred small tree or large shrub. Looking at a much more exotic appearance; the Japanese angelica tree, Aralia elata is quite an unremarkable tree. In the winter its main stem is shown to look quite unique, but as the leaves break a dramatic transformation takes place for this miniature tree, as it produces enormous leaves that spread far out as much as 3ft (1m) long. Each leaf is divided into a series of ‘leaflets’ and near to when summertime ends, the top of the tree is covered in frothy white flowers.

The Aria elata is classified as being hardy and stern in temperatures as low as approx minus 35 degrees Fahrenheit, and thrives best in a position that is sheltered from cold draughts. Both the ordinary elata and two variegated forms make bold plants that can be real eye-catchers.

A shrub that may also be considered quite unusual for a container, but is nevertheless a very worthy candidate, is the corkscrew hazel Corylus avellana ‘Contorta’ (also known as Harry Lauder’s walking stick). As the name suggests, both branches and twigs are quite tortuously twisted, making a really striking plant.

In winter the bare stems alone are fascinating; in an early spring they are punctuated by streamers of long yellow catkins and in summer rich green leaves slowly unfurl to cover the plant. In the open ground corkscrew hazel grows to about 9 ft (3m) tall, but in a container it grows slowly and in our experience remains quite dwarfed for several years.

One of our favourite groups of shrubs for container gardening is the Japanese maple, Acer palmatum and its close relatives. Here is a plant that can grow into most beautiful irregular shapes, making a graceful specimen that, together with its pot, really deserves the description of sculpture – a plant with a truly oriental feel. Like corylus, the bare winter twigs alone are graceful when the plant has established its form, but the leaves are the real feature, both in summer and in autumn when they turn fiery shades of yellow, red and orange.

All varieties of Acer palmatum are slow growing, so they can be grown in a container for many years, and can be trimmed to encourage them to form the best possible shape, perhaps following their inclination to lean to one side. They like a peaty soil and the leaves can be quite delicate so are best sheltered from, both with and late frosts.
Acer palmatum ‘Atropuroureum’ has deeply divided leaves of dark bronze-purple, whilst A. Palmatum ‘Dissectum’ has leaves which are much more finely cut and are a fresh, delicate shade of slightly yellowish green. A. Palmatum ‘Dissectum’ Atropurpureum’ has dark purple leaves which are similarly finely toothed.

Although acers are sculptural they are plants with a soft, flowing shape and light stems which move in the breeze, the leaves creating a rippling effect. This combined with their tendency to lean, makes them ideal plants to grow in a pot beside a pond.

Equally sculptural but in a more rigid and formal way is the bay tree, Laurus nobilis. The stiff, leathery, dark green leaves are well known for their aromatic character making the plant useful for culinary purposes as well as for its ornamental quality.

As an evergreen container plant its usefulness lies both in the narious clipped shapes available – from lower growing pyramid to a ball head on standard stem – and in its ability to lend an air of sophisticated smartness to its surroundings. Ideal in pairs or even larger formal groupings such as a straight line to form a demarcation, perhaps in a courtyard or at the edge of a formal patio, bay trees look good in stone pots, wooden tubs or ornamental terracotta designs, the latter emphasizing their Mediterranean origin.

The origin means that bay trees are best protected from frost, being particularly susceptible to damage in cold, inland regions. They are quite slow growing and therefore take some time to mature as specimens – this being reflected in their price which is usually rather high.

They are easy to keep in shape by gentle trimming of any leaves that threaten to spoil the overall outline.

A similarly slow-growing evergreen with dense, luxuriant foliage is a box, Buxus sempervirens. As a British native plant it is more hardy than bay, but is very slow growing, so specimens container plants tend to be quite small pyramids, and are increasingly seen in the form of topiary – traditional shapes of birds and the like.

In good open ground, plants take their nourishment from the soil and their moisture requirement from the rain, but in containers they are totally dependant for their existence on the conditions provided for them initially, on quality consistency of care and attention devoted to them subsequently.

Therefore it’s important to meet their four basic needs, which are fortunately quite simple. At the time of planting they are for adequate drainage and a suitable growing medium and, on a long term basis, for regular watering and feeding. Firstly, drainage, and whatever the type of container, it should have adequate holes in the bottom to allow excess water to drain freely. You may also need to raise the base of the pot so that it is slightly off the ground to ensure that water runs away – although this should not be necessary if the pot is standing on a base of shingle, gravel or some other aggregate which is itself a free-draining material. To prevent the drainage holes becoming clogged, a layer of crocks from broken clay flower pots should be placed in the bottom before compost is added. If these are not available you could use pebbles or fired granules of clay or cinterized ash of about ½ in (13mm) diameter. Whatever you use, it is a good idea to place on top a few pieces of well-rotted turf or a layer of coarse peat.

Watering
We find that it is best to water container plants morning and evening in spring and summer; at least once a day – certainly a general rule. A large specimen growing in full sun in the summer may also need to be watered again around midday, but you should take care not to wet the foliage. On the other hand, for plants like hostas and ferns growing in a damp shady place twice a day would be too much.

Watering can sometimes possess a lot of time, especially if you choose to use a watering can as we do, rather than a hose pipe. Do remember that the more containers you have, the more work is involved. It is possible to minimize the time that watering demands by grouping containers close together in certain parts of the garden opposed to placing the odd one or two in numerous different locations.

Feeding
Plants should be fed in the growing season. If you use a can to water, it is easy enough to add a measure of general liquid fertilizer whilst filling the can at the tap. We feed container plants about once a week, again using judgement and feeding even more frequently any plant that looks a little sickly. Do remember to water the container before feeding, because if you pour diluted fertilizer on to dry soil it will simply wash through without having a chance to be effective.
In spring it is a good idea to fork out gently the top inch or so of compost in the containers of long-term plants. Tease up the new surface and then add a layer of fresh, new compost. You could also add a sprinkling of bone meal or granular general fertilizer at the same time, as an extra feed. Indeed, there are other ways of applying fertilizer to container plants – even a pellet which can be placed just under the soil surface to give slow-release fertilizer and weed killer combined.

Weeds
On the subject of weeds, these should obviously be removed from containers as soon as they appear – a job that only takes a minute or two. Even when container plants are established you may still want to move them around the garden from time to time – that is, after all, part of the ever-changing interest of container gardening. For this job, it’s considered essential to have on hand a low, flat trolley on wheels or castors. The pot can be eased up on to the trolley using a spade as a lever.

Weather conditions
In spring our trolley is in constant use, bringing hostas out of winter hibernation or moving the specimen Acer palmatum dissectum into the sun. This is a beautiful, mature plant in a heavy pot and early in the season as the delicate foliage starts to break we tend to leave it on the trolley so that it can be moved easily in response to weather conditions. We are anxious to avoid burning by the sudden warm spring sunshine or damage from a sharp easy wind; as already mentioned, acer leaves can be delicate and should be monitored during the blooming sun as brown specks would spoil the whole look of that lovely foliage effect.

Good container plants should have a distinctive outline that demands to be viewed from all directions away from other plants – whether that is neatly symmetrical or a strikingly random shape that nevertheless has a pleasing, well-balanced line. So, shrub that are distinguished by a strong architectural shape like cordyline, or tend by natural habit to form a dense, rounded plant like a rhododendron or hydrangea are ideal – as are those plants which whilst dense, tend to have a drooping-effect a lot of the time, this makes them gracefully fall over the edges of the pot. Some phormiums and most fuchsias are examples.

Looking close at the structure of the plant, you are able to identify that the most successful in containers are either nearly perfect specimens of their type or, in the case of some conifers especially, those that have gone towards the other extreme and grown away from type, giving them an asymmetrical shape that is full of interest and character.

Shape isn’t the only factor that is concerned with the outline of the plant, but with its actual form –the leaves grow almost in layers in lush foliage plants like hostas or the twisted twigs of corkscrew hazel, this is especially effective when interlaced by its drooping catkins adding yet another dimension. Flowers, too, might be capable of forming a bold mass like tylups or narcissus, with stems neatly upright. Other flowering plants are striking for the shape and colour of the bloom itself; lilies and crown imperials are just two examples.

The third aspect of container plants that is closely associated with shape and form is detail. Details such as leaf shape and texture, variegation, flower form and colour can all help to make a plant special – as with delicately variegated ivy or the large rich, glossy leaves of Fatsia japonica. However, they are features which tend to be noticed more at close quarters and most container plants make their initial impact from a distance – however short – so details should be used to enhance shape and outline rather than to replace them, and this is especially true of permanent plants as opposed to those grown seasonally in containers.

The ultimate size of the following plants will again, vary according to conditions, the quantity and quality of support given and the way in which the plant is trained.

Ideally, trees should be used for feature planting, to provide focus and structure to a design. The height and spread figures are probable after twenty years of growth in average conditions. Many are likely to continue growing substantially.

Looking in a visual perspective – size and colour are as important as shape and style. Even if you want the freedom to decide the exact position for a pot when you have arrived home, you should at least have an idea of the rough proportions that are appropriate to the space available. An ornate stone urn made up of large size would overpower a tiny garden or back yard; however a few small flowerpots would be lost at the far end of a long path.

With increased popularity of container gardening, it has led to pots being available in a wider range of materials to suit just about all tastes and pockets.

Having mentioned these points, it should be said that the choice of pot need not be a dull business full of restrictions and dire warnings of unsuitability. Choosing a container should be a great pleasure of many relating to container gardening, especially if like us you have a weakness for beautiful and unusual china and wooden objects indoors. This seems to transfer quite comfortably to an irresistible desire to fill the garden with pots that have a beautiful shape, an appealing surface or fascinating decorative details.

Economical pots
As might be expected, the most economical pots to buy are not the most glamorous, however, they are practical. Planters made from natural cellular fibre come in the shape of long, narrow troughs as well as round, square and hexagonal designs; they have an earthy colour, with a knobbly texture that might not suit all tastes bit they do provide excellent growing conditions for plants because the fibre breathes. Intended to be for temporary use, lasting a couple of years, after which the fibre is bio-degradable.

These inexpensive pots are ideal if you want to fill a sunny yard or balcony with colour on a budget; they could be positioned in informal groups of five or seven containing seasonal flowers – fuchsias, geraniums, petunias and silver-leaf – or even vegetables – tomatoes, peppers, aubergines.

Plastic Pots
Looking at a horticultural point of view, plastic pots are best for short-term plants because the material does not breathe. If you want something fairly simple in which plants may be more likely to thrive in the long term, then ordinary clay flower pots would be an excellent choice. The smaller sizes are usually machine-made and therefore low in price. Half-pots, are extremely useful for plants like geraniums, pot marigolds, polyanthys and opetunias for their wider, shallow form makes for a more balanced composition. They are useful, too, for azaleas and all plants that require only a shallow root depth.

Machine-made clay pots
These pots may be handy and inexpensive, but their more sophisticated relatives – handmade terracotta in ornate or traditionally simple designs – are among the most useful and versatile garden containers. The material has a smooth, warm texture; it is a pleasant, earthy colour that blends into so many settings, and being porous it allows soil to drain ell and roots to breathe. It is also suitable for wide range of plants including shrubs, perennials, bulbs, annuals, herbs and even vegetables.

Terracotta pots
Although the character and feel of terracotta is associated with sunny climates like the southern Mediterranean or California, pots, urns and troughs can be visually versatile, blending well into many settings from a plain new house, or modern apartment block to more ornate Colonial, Georgian and Victorian buildings, and with many architectural materials.

A practical word of caution is necessary here, by no means all terracotta pots are tolerant of frost. This is especially true of those made in areas where the weather is temperature all year round, so do check when buying if you live in an area where the temperature normally falls below freezing in winter as pots may crack and even burst in these conditions. It is possible, however, to buy frost-proof terracotta pots, often with guarantee against frost damage.